Concubine Costume by Eva S.

I hope you like this costume. I tried to stay faithful to the shape and style of the original, but working with what I have. I've never done bead embroidery before, so I learned a lot while working on this.

The jacket is a restyled and recut from a 70's era velvet jacket. According to the label it's cotton velvet, but it has an interesting texture to it (like tiny little stripes). Before I started messing with it it was larger, with buttons in the front, a lapel, and a plain straight hem. I opened up the sleeves, cut the neck and hem, and added custom drafted facings to stabilize them. I apologize if the zipper is not the most awesome ever, I generally do hook and eye or buttons in costumes, so this was actually the first time I'd set a zipper. I've done as much of the embellishment that I could with the time I had.

I made the jacket larger in the hips to accommodate the skirt and pants. If I've miscalculated the size in the waist/bust, there is extra fabric in the side back seam that you can let out. I took it in because the original was larger than your measurements.

The veil is a silk georgette half circle with a radius of about 45 inches. I hand hemmed it and sewed the sequins on it. I've enclosed extra sequins so you can add more if you like. I put on as many as I had time for. I wasn't sure how you'd want to wear it so I've enclosed two combs that you might want to sew in to to fix it in your hair. I wasn't sure if the original was attached to the metal headdress or not.

The pants and skirts are made of dupioni silk. I lined the petal skirts in a purple cotton to get cleanly turned edges. I didn't have your waist to floor measure, so I hope they are close to the right length for you. I drafted the patterns for the pants and skirt myself based on the shape of the ones the dolls wears. Getting the pants to gather correctly at the ankles and getting the petal skirts to lie over the hips was especially interesting. you'll probablywant to wear the pants just below your natural waist to reduce the bulk and I'm not sure if you'll need to trim the length of the ankle ties to keep them from showing. Just knot them off at the ends if you need to trim them (so they don't fray). The skirts close in the back with three hook/eye combos.

I really hope you enjoy the costume. I really, really hope it fits ok. One of my friends loaned me her adjustable dummy to work with, but I've never made a costume for someone I couldn't measure in person or do fittings with.

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Copyright © 2010 Marina Bychkova.